Hill Country Chicken Feeds the City

A warm Southern welcome at Hill Country Chicken

Flatiron's new Hill Country Chicken fills a big city need: where to feed a fried chicken fix in a jiffy. A workday lunch, Saturday shopping snack, tourist break or inexpensive meal with kids. It's ideal un-fast food fast food. The other good news is that it's a bright, friendly oasis and the food is made fresh daily - from the thighs to the pies. Marc Glosserman, of BBQ hit Hill Country, offers two family chicken recipes depending on your preference: the Hill Country Classic, and his grandma Mama Els', a skinless version coated in crushed crackers.

Hill Country Classic fried chicken

Pieces are sold a la carte ($1.75 - $5.50), so mixing is encouraged. Both kinds are buttermilk-brined and juicy, but fell flat in the seasoning department. As for the sides ($2.50, small/$5, large), the one standout is the rich cheesy fried mashed potatoes. The blistered corn salad is mild. Fries are ho-hum. Buttery biscuits ($1) are a bargain. 

Don't forget the cheesy fried mashed potatoes

The chicken won't win any awards (for that go to Harlem or Brooklyn). But Hill Country Chicken gets an A for effort. In my book, sometimes that's more than adequate. And if they run out of pie, which sadly they did the night I was there, pop by Italian food hall Eataly around the corner for some gelato. 1123 Broadway (corner of 25th St.)