New Malai Marke Hits the Mark

A Malai Marke Indian feast

East Village newcomer Malai Marke is northern Indian slang for "a dash of cream." But there's nothing slight about its impact on the E. 6th Street block known as Curry Row. In fact, its celebration of authentic regional specialties has given waning Curry Row a much needed facelift. Co-owner Roshan Balan calls it a ‘flavor explosion,’ and he’s right.

A tour around the menu introduces diners to hard to find coastal delicacies from Goa, Kerala and Mangalore, all richly influenced by Portuguese settlers. Try the coconutty chicken xacuti and fish ambotik. Murgh makhani and Malai Marke paneer, two signature dishes by chef/co-owner Shiva Natarajan, are robust twists on classics butter chicken and butter paneer. Lamb madras, a staple dry curry on Indian menus, benefits from quality meat and fresh curry leaves. Fresh chili and red onions add another layer of flavor to classic naan. It's the ideal place to venture off the beaten curry path and try something new. You really can't go wrong.

Malai Marke on E. 6th St.

Interiors by Thida Thong Thai are stylishly casual with copper pots from the company warehouse lining the exposed brick walls. And the open kitchen maintains the connection with diners.

Malai Marke is bound to be a stalwart in the team's fleet of restaurants includes Chola, Dhaba, and Thele Wala.

The $9 a la carte lunch special, which comes with two sides and naan, is one of the best steals in the East Village, too. Now you know.

318 E. 6th Street
Between 1st + 2nd Aves
212 777 7729

An Afternoon at Bab al Yemen

Slow roasted lamb haneeth over rice and veggies

When my group of 18 curious diners poured into tiny Bab al Yemen in Bay Ridge for Sunday lunch, we were eager novices to Yemeni food. It paid off.


Scoop up lamb segar with brick oven bread

Our server Viktoria didn't skip a beat in knowing what to suggest for the table. A selection of their most popular appetizers followed by a variety of classics. First came the luscious bread. Blistering loaves of fresh brick oven flat bread. We started ripping it apart even before the appetizers arrived. No matter. Baskets were constantly replenished. The bread is a staple to the cuisine, used as much as a utensil as a filling carb.

Soon after, platters of hummus, each crowned with a fragrant meaty mixture, arrived. One held a giant scoop of lamb segar, tender morsels of spiced meat sauteed with tomatoes and onions. The second, curry yamaani, was our chef's inventive take on a mellow coconut chicken. It all required scooping with chunks of bread. I could have dined on the appetizers alone.


Mild coconut chicken curry yamaani

But wait, there's more. Lots more. A Yemeni omelet of ground meat and diced veggies was served in a piping hot casserole, allowing the freshly cracked egg to cook before your eyes. The fattah b'lahm, a baked lamb which incorporated flat bread with the jus, was so much more than soggy bread. It was hearty and full of flavor. Only the fahsah, a traditional watery lamb soup, turned up bland in comparison to the other excellent dishes.

The bill finally arrived. Under $20 a head. An impossible price for an afternoon of jovial gluttony. At the end of our epic meal, I pulled aside our obliging server with the beautiful black locks and kohl rimmed eyes to sum up exactly what makes up typical Yemeni cuisine. She threw up her hands and said, "I don't know. I'm Polish!" Love it.

 

413 Bayridge Ave.

Brooklyn, NY

718 943 6961

Open daily 10 am - 11 pm

Friday 2pm - midnight

 

 

 

 

Ultimate Fusion Food: Korean-Uzbek in Brighton Beach

Braised meat-filled cabbage

Once a month I join fellow food blogger Yoshie Okabayashi and her hungry band of Ramen + Friends eaters to scour the boroughs in search of killer Asian cheap eats to experience together. Typical stops include Flushing, Elmhurst, and Chinatown. Today is a first in Brighton Beach for Korean-Uzbek-Russian food at Cafe At Your Mother-In-Law. 

Selection of Korean salads

Brighton Beach has long been one of my favorite foodie destinations for the afternoon. Now dining at the Cafe is one more reason to go. It's just steps off of Brighton Beach Ave., the main street lined with delectable gourmet shops.

The dining room is bright and clean but sparse. You go for the food. Owner Elza Kan is Korean from Uzbekistan, a minority population brought to the country by Stalin. So borscht and savory blinis share the menu with an assortment of kimchi. Actually the Korean styled pickled salads are well worth trying. Our salad samplings ($3.49 - $7.99/lb) included a delicious eggplant hye, Korean carrot, soybean sprouts, and something called fish hye, a fermented raw tilapia in a vinegar, garlic, and chili sauce. I ate the entire bowl myself. They sell the salads in to-go containers, too, in case you need to take some home.

Classic Uzbek plov

On the Russian-Uzbek side, the plov ($6.50), lamb chunks cooked in seasoned rice, was hearty and rich. The lamb-stuffed cabbage rolls ($4.99) were tasty. And you can wash it all down with a pitcher of compot ($5), a stewed fruit juice. If that proves too sweet, you can always buy a can of 99 cent Ukranian lager around the corner and bring it in. It's BYOB.

Delicious fish hye

Before you leave the neighborhood, be sure to hit Brighton Beach Ave., to stock up on some gourmet goodies. Vintage Food Corp is a must for bulk dried fruits and nuts of every kind. Definitely end the afternoon with a giant mak, the famous Russian poppy seed sweet roll ($1.25), from nearby Gold Label Deli. Look for the woman selling them from the store's bakery window. Fresh from the oven, it makes for one happy ending.

3071 Brighton 4th Street
between Brighton Beach Ave. + Oceanview Ave.

Zabb Elee: A Cheap Thai Superstar

Juicy Thai papaya salad

The East Village is blessed to get the first Manhattan outpost of Zabb Elee, a seriously delicious Northeastern Thai restaurant from Queens.

Chef Ratchanee Sumpatboon showcases her heritage from the Isan region with a beautifully presented menu of traditional dishes. What does that mean? No pad Thai and not a green curry in sight. Instead, wake up your taste buds with fiery chilis, fresh papaya salads (som tum) and grilled meats (yang). In fact, chili is the star of the region, so expect a lot of kick. I am in heaven.

Portions are generous (made to share) and prices are shockingly reasonable. With most dishes at $9, Zabb Elee officially tops the KikaEats Cheap Eats list.

There are a half dozen varieties of spicy larb salads - mince meat in a fresh lime dressing with chilis, mint, cilantro and scallions. Along with basic ground chicken or pork, choices include catfish, and vegetarian bamboo shoot.

Fiery chicken larb

The refreshing green papaya salads - som tum - are my favorite and the heat level is made to order. I ordered the som tum Thai (dried shrimp and peanuts) with 'medium heat' for the table and it still made my experienced eyes tear. Traditionally eaten with sticky rice, these salads just burst with flavor, crunch and tang. My dining companions were overwhelmed with the spiciness, so don't be afraid to order it 'mild.'

Pork balls

'Yang' means grilled and there is a variety of meat - heavy on the pork- and seafood options. Only the grilled pork balls - lookchin moo yang - were surprisingly bland and forgettable.

The menu is extensive and the service is attentive and helpful. It was pleasantly low key on two recent evenings. I suspect that will change soon.

75 2nd Ave (between E 5th and 6th Sts)
Mon - Sun 11:30 am - 1 am
212 505 9533

A Fried Chicken Steal

Come and get it

I am amazed at how Williamsburg's hipster dive The Commodore continues to churn out expertly prepared fried chicken at bargain basement prices. Honestly, where else can you get a fresh, hot plate of three giant, greaseless thighs and divine biscuits with honey butter for $11?

A side of sauteed kale is a must. Kale (part of the cabbage family) is one of those superfoods we're only going to see more of on menus. Here it's slightly tangy, slightly crunchy, and a delicious compliment to the crispy bird. Plus it's crazy good for you. Whereas fried chicken? Well, you get my point.

I couldn't help compare this dish to the fried yard bird ($18) from a recent visit to Harlem's Red Rooster. I won't knock the uptown hot spot for its vibrant style and vibe. But bite for bite, dollar for dollar, there's no comparison. The yard bird came out with two hefty pieces of lukewarm, nicely spiced but greasy poultry. Only a lemon wedge and spoonful of greens garnished the plate. It gets raves, but I don't get it.

I'll visit The Commodore for my fix any day. Wait, I forgot about Pies 'n' Thighs...

366 Metropolitan Ave.
Brooklyn
718 218 7632
Mon-Th, Sun 4pm - 12am
Fri 4pm - 1am

Brooklyn on Dwellable

Fonda Nolita Heats Up Taco Truck Wars



Taco + VW Combi = Tacombi

Dario Wolos knows how to one up the current food truck craze: bring it indoors. Not just the concept, the entire truck. The Monterrey, Mexico native recently moved to NYC to open Fonda Nolita. And brought his beloved vintage VW bus - dubbed Tacombi - along. Tacombi, a blending of 'taco' and retro Volkswagon model Combi, is his culinary brainchild, and since 2005, it's been one of three mobile taquerias he set up in seaside town Playa del Carmen.

Now in its new Nolita home, a transformed 2,100 sq. ft. former clothing store, the same chilled beach shack vibe is recreated indoors - down to the festive strings of lights, metal chess tables, and tropical plants. Oh, and the Tacombi sits in the center of it all, serving up fresh, tasty tacos day and night. The staff is charming, making chatting with the cooks part of the dining pleasure.

On a recent visit the seasonal taco menu (all at $4), included a flavorful short rib, generous roast pork with red cabbage, and corn and poblano, which could have used more kick. Ingredients are locally sourced, including the homemade salsas on each table. Locally brewed house brand beer (liquor license is pending) and sodas are also on offer. For breakfast tacos, try the chorizo/potato or cactus/poblano. It's a seductive little hangout, perfect for meeting up with friends (bring a deck of cards), lazing and grazing on tacos and beer for a few hours. As the weather only gets colder outside, there's comfort in knowing Fonda Nolita offers an endless summer inside.



267 Elizabeth St. below Houston. Open daily, 8am - 2am.









Hill Country Chicken Feeds the City

A warm Southern welcome at Hill Country Chicken

Flatiron's new Hill Country Chicken fills a big city need: where to feed a fried chicken fix in a jiffy. A workday lunch, Saturday shopping snack, tourist break or inexpensive meal with kids. It's ideal un-fast food fast food. The other good news is that it's a bright, friendly oasis and the food is made fresh daily - from the thighs to the pies. Marc Glosserman, of BBQ hit Hill Country, offers two family chicken recipes depending on your preference: the Hill Country Classic, and his grandma Mama Els', a skinless version coated in crushed crackers.

Hill Country Classic fried chicken

Pieces are sold a la carte ($1.75 - $5.50), so mixing is encouraged. Both kinds are buttermilk-brined and juicy, but fell flat in the seasoning department. As for the sides ($2.50, small/$5, large), the one standout is the rich cheesy fried mashed potatoes. The blistered corn salad is mild. Fries are ho-hum. Buttery biscuits ($1) are a bargain. 

Don't forget the cheesy fried mashed potatoes

The chicken won't win any awards (for that go to Harlem or Brooklyn). But Hill Country Chicken gets an A for effort. In my book, sometimes that's more than adequate. And if they run out of pie, which sadly they did the night I was there, pop by Italian food hall Eataly around the corner for some gelato. 1123 Broadway (corner of 25th St.)

Hungry on a Fiver: Top 10 East Village Eats for $5-ish

Who doesn’t like a tasty bargain? I’m always getting asked for bargain bites in the East Village. But cheap is not worth it to me when the food is not exceptional or it’s skimpy. These tasty vittles (vegetarian options included) definitely make the cut. Plus they cover cravings from early morning to the late night munchies.

1. The ridiculously delicious and cheap lamb cumin burger ($2.50) and roast pork burger ($2) at Xi’an Famous Foods.

Baoguette

2. Signature sandwich ($5.75) from Baoguette. It blows the banh mi competition away. Ask for extra hot if you want it scattered with sinus-clearing Thai chilis.

3. Mouthwatering and generous chicken kebab sandwich ($5.50) from Café Rakka. Order with both white and hot sauce for a flavor explosion.

4. Five sensational seafood and tofu pancakes ($2.99) and pickled radish kimchi ($1.99) from M2M market. Check out the refrigerated section for an addictive array of kimchi, pickled veggies and noodle dishes.

Seafood + tofu pancakes with radish kimchi

5. Classic cheese slice ($2.50) from Two Boots Pizza. The cornmeal crust is the best in town.

6. Flavor packed falafel ($2.50) or shawarma (chicken or lamb at $5) sandwiches at Mamoun’s. Make sure to order with their famous homemade hot sauce.

7. Fresh and incredibly filling egg-bacon-cheese breakfast sandwich with coffee ($4.90) served all day at Little Veselka outdoor café.

8. Choco cupcake with peanut butter frosting ($3) from Butter Lane. Mmmm.

9. Classic currywurst + fries ($6) at Wechsler’s Currywurst, a teeny but wunderbar salute to German sausage and beer.

10. Sunday and Monday-only pad thai special ($5) at Cafetasia. All day and night. Delivery, dine in or carry out. A delicious bargain.

So what makes your top 10 list? Be nice and share.

Happy Birthday, S'MAC

There is nothing cheesy about this offer. S’MAC, the EV’s beloved mac-n-cheese joint, is celebrating its 4th anniversary with an amazing deal. On Tuesday, July 27th, 2010, the All-American nosh (gooey classic American + Cheddar blend) will cost $1.00. That’s one of the best foodie deals I’ve seen in a long time. And I will be more than happy to help super friendly owners Sarita + Caesar Ekya celebrate.