Thursday, April 28, 2011

Zabb Elee: A Cheap Thai Superstar

Juicy Thai papaya salad
The East Village is blessed to get the first Manhattan outpost of Zabb Elee, a seriously delicious Northeastern Thai restaurant from Queens.

Chef Ratchanee Sumpatboon showcases her heritage from the Isan region with a beautifully presented menu of traditional dishes. What does that mean? No pad Thai and not a green curry in sight. Instead, wake up your taste buds with fiery chilis, fresh papaya salads (som tum) and grilled meats (yang). In fact, chili is the star of the region, so expect a lot of kick. I am in heaven.

Portions are generous (made to share) and prices are shockingly reasonable. With most dishes at $9, Zabb Elee officially tops the KikaEats Cheap Eats list.

There are a half dozen varieties of spicy larb salads - mince meat in a fresh lime dressing with chilis, mint, cilantro and scallions. Along with basic ground chicken or pork, choices include catfish, and vegetarian bamboo shoot.

Fiery chicken larb
The refreshing green papaya salads - som tum - are my favorite and the heat level is made to order. I ordered the som tum Thai (dried shrimp and peanuts) with 'medium heat' for the table and it still made my experienced eyes tear. Traditionally eaten with sticky rice, these salads just burst with flavor, crunch and tang. My dining companions were overwhelmed with the spiciness, so don't be afraid to order it 'mild.'

Pork balls
'Yang' means grilled and there is a variety of meat - heavy on the pork- and seafood options. Only the grilled pork balls - lookchin moo yang - were surprisingly bland and forgettable.

The menu is extensive and the service is attentive and helpful. It was pleasantly low key on two recent evenings. I suspect that will change soon.

75 2nd Ave (between E 5th and 6th Sts)
Mon - Sun 11:30 am - 1 am
212 505 9533

Zabb Elee on Urbanspoon

Thursday, April 21, 2011

An Austrian Gem in the East Village


Pickled vegetables
What big eyes you'll have at Edi & the Wolf, an Austrian oasis in the heart of Alphabet City. Open for about six months, the word of mouth has been consistently positive. I can see why.

Austrian executive chefs Eduard (aka 'Edi') Frauneder and Wolfgang 'the Wolf' Ban have created a welcoming and casually chic eatery. Serving rustic Austrian cuisine, they pay homage to the local wine taverns - or 'heurigen' - popular in their native land.

Artfully designed to mimic a rustic farmhouse, its evening diners are bathed in soft, flattering light. The crowd is noticeably grownup, more West Village than East, and even more European. A long communal center table keeps the mood convivial. 


Baby back ribs
Start with a half litre glass of Steigl lager ($7 bargain) and an order of pickles. Not your ordinary pickles, but delicate wisps of root veggies marinated in brine. The menu is eclectic but inviting. The glazed baby back ribs ($13) are tasty.

So is the classic wiener schnitzel ($19) made with heritage pig. My order was a little dry, but the two zippy side salads and tart lingonberry brightened up the flavor. Definitely ask for an order of Brussels sprouts, sauteed with thick chunks of bacon.

Wiener schnitzel






Stick around for an after dinner drink at the cozy and stylish copper bar. It's a good opportunity to marvel at the interior design, especially the inventive 40-ft rope-cum-chandelier salvaged from an old church.

Weekend brunch service just began and offers great value with a bread basket, fresh juice and coffee served with each $14 entree. And be on the lookout for the outdoor seating currently under construction.

102 Ave C (near 7th)
212 598 1040
Mon - Sun, 5pm - 2am
Brunch served Sat - Sun, 11am - 3:30 pm



Edi & The Wolf on Urbanspoon

Monday, April 18, 2011

A Fried Chicken Steal

Come and get it
I am amazed at how Williamsburg's hipster dive The Commodore continues to churn out expertly prepared fried chicken at bargain basement prices. Honestly, where else can you get a fresh, hot plate of three giant, greaseless thighs and divine biscuits with honey butter for $11?

A side of sauteed kale is a must. Kale (part of the cabbage family) is one of those superfoods we're only going to see more of on menus. Here it's slightly tangy, slightly crunchy, and a delicious compliment to the crispy bird. Plus it's crazy good for you. Whereas fried chicken? Well, you get my point.

I couldn't help compare this dish to the fried yard bird ($18) from a recent visit to Harlem's Red Rooster. I won't knock the uptown hot spot for its vibrant style and vibe. But bite for bite, dollar for dollar, there's no comparison. The yard bird came out with two hefty pieces of lukewarm, nicely spiced but greasy poultry. Only a lemon wedge and spoonful of greens garnished the plate. It gets raves, but I don't get it.

I'll visit The Commodore for my fix any day. Wait, I forgot about Pies 'n' Thighs...

366 Metropolitan Ave.
Brooklyn
718 218 7632
Mon-Th, Sun 4pm - 12am
Fri 4pm - 1am


The Commodore on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Burger + Barrel's Meaty New Brunch


Steak frites for brunch
Burger & Barrel just began brunch service, which makes shopping in Soho or seeing a matinee at the Angelika an even better weekend outing.

The brunch menu has appealing all American flair: Smoked salmon + egg 'pizza' ($12), a B+B bacon breakfast sandwich ($12), and even chef Josh Capon's signature Bash burger ($14) is available for brunch. Truth be told, I was not a fan of the Bash burger, despite all the raves. The bacon jam had a strange flabby consistency and tinny after taste.

But if you're craving some daytime beef, the classic steak frites ($27) delivers. A red wine shallot butter slowly melts atop a generous sirloin cut. No fuss. Just good taste.


A mound of short rib hash hides under eggs
The short rib hash ($14) is a standout. You'd never guess by the image. What's hiding under the fried eggs is a generous serving of soft, succulent short rib and cubed potatoes. Add a bit of creamy guac, pico de gallo, and crisp flatbread, and the flavors snap, crackle and pop.

25 W Houston (between Greene + Mercer Sts.)
212 334 7320
Brunch Sat + Sun, 11:30 am - 4pm
Brunch reservations recommended

Burger & Barrel on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Baking Gourmet Crackers in a Jiffy

Fresh baked crackers ready in 30 mins.

Who knew fancy crackers were ridiculously easy to make? And they require five basic ingredients: flour, water, olive oil, baking powder and salt. The rest is up to your taste and imagination. I like to throw in dried rosemary, flax seeds, grated Asiago cheese, smoked paprika, crushed cumin seeds and powdered cumin, fresh ground black pepper, and crushed red pepper flakes. But that's just me. Garlic salt and grated Parmesan also taste great. Maldon sea salt flecked on top also works. The point is it's fun to experiment. And if you're like me, you'll be baking these beauties weekly.

The secret is to press the dough as thinly as possible without tearing it. Too thick and the crackers will be soft (but still tasty!). Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Mix dry ingredients in a big bowl:

2 cups flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
*spices and grated cheeses of choice

*Mix and match your choice of spices and/or cheeses: dried rosemary, grated hard cheese, paprika, garlic salt, onion powder, cumin (crushed cumin seeds add flavor and texture, powdered adds flavor only - I use both), crushed pepper flakes or cayenne pepper, black pepper, flax seeds or poppy seeds.

Add to dry ingredients:

1/3 cup olive oil
2/3 cup warm water

Mix dough with spoon (wooden if possible) until a soft ball forms.

Dough forms in a few stirs
Split dough in half to form two smaller balls. Patiently press out each ball on lightly greased 15" x 10" baking sheet until the dough reaches the edges. Use either your finger tips or a rolling pin. Dough should be as thin as possible. Slice in squares with pizza cutter or knife. Bake for about 14 mins. til lightly toasted and crisp. Remove from pan, let cool and store in airtight container. Serve with your favorite toppings or alone.

Instant snacking

Monday, March 21, 2011

Maharlika Filipino Pop Up Brunch



Porktastic sizzling sisig
 Brunch in the East Village is getting hotter - and more global - than ever.

Last week, I raved about Cuban fare at El Cobre. This week we venture off to the Philippines with pop up brunch at Maharlika. Brunch here is a foodie's delight. Culinary adventure? Check. Menu starring P-O-R-K? Check. And beautifully presented, mouthwatering meals? Check again.

Owner Nicole Ponseca dreamed of putting an authentic and winning Filipino restaurant on the Manhattan map. After months of traveling around her native Philippines with chef Miguel Trinidad to develop a home-style menu, the former Saatchi & Saatchi professional took the plunge with a weekend pop up brunch at bistro Leon (she is GM to Leon sister resto Juliette). And the crowds keep coming.

Tocilog tocino - inspired pork in 7 Up

Brunch time feels like a festive afternoon house party. Ponseca's warmth touches everything from the welcoming staff to the comforting aromas wafting through the small, but lively dining room. Your table is already set with delicious local snacks - spicy nagaraya nuts, cornicks, even chicken chicharon.

Don't be surprised if your neck keeps craning as dishes emerge from the kitchen. The food looks gooood! For something typical and hearty, try the sizzling sisig with eggs ($13), a hash of pork ear, cheek and snout cooked three ways, mixed with onions and served with garlic rice. The pork is tender and tasty.

My favorite pork dish was the tocilog tocino ($11), a plate of sliced pork tenderloin, marinated in 7 Up and grilled to crispy, caramely goodness. It's served with a light mixed salad, garlic rice and fried egg. The tocino also comes as a side order ($5). Filipinos love their pork and that means SPAM too, which is featured in the eggs Benigno ($12), along with coconut hollandaise and white sweet potato fries.

Mango stuffed French toast
The mango stuffed French toast ($12) is sheer heaven. Decadent without being cloying, and perfect as a shared dessert.

Here's more good news: Maharlika will be joining Brooklyn's Dekalb Market  in May, and feature quality Filipino foods and Asian condiments.

Maharlika is Sanskrit for 'noble work' and folklore suggests Maharlika was also a fabled princess, inspiring Ponseca in her venture of "noble work...sharing the culture and identity of Filipinos through food." Mission accomplished.

351 E 12th St @ 1st Ave
Saturdays and Sundays, 11am - 3pm
Cash only
Reservations highly recommended at info@maharlika.com

Maharlika (at Resto Leon) on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Bowery Beef vs This Little Piggy


This Little Piggy's with homemade gravy...or Bowery Beef's with BBQ sauce
Tender roast beef. Makes my mouth waterrrrrrr. Since opening last year, the East Village's This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef has won raves and developed a cult following for it unforgettable roast beef sandwich (not to mention the best pastrami in town). Now newcomer Bowery Beef just entered the scene. Can someone say throwdown?  
THE LOWDOWN

                                      This Little Piggy                         Bowery Beef
Roast Beef                     homemade + hand cut                  homemade + hand cut

House Specialty             housemade gravy                         prepared bbq sauce
Cheese Options             cheez wiz or mozzarella                white American
Onions                           slow roasted au jus                       raw
Bun                                locally baked egg roll or hero          packaged soft roll
Other Sandwiches         outstanding homemade                  coming soon
                                      pastrami
Sides                             homemade macaroni and                no
                                      potato salads, hand cut fries,
                                      coleslaw
Eat-in Dining                  limited counter top                         yes
Delivery                         yes                                               no (but catering offered)
Inside charming Bowery Beef
While both shops offer first-rate roast beef and passion to match, the difference is in the detail. At Bowery Beef, located in the front of Bowery Poetry Club, the staff is certainly affable and energetic, and wants to make sure you’re happy too. Co-owner Ray Lemoine is the first to admit it’s still a work in progress: they ran out of plates on the first day and if you don’t eat roast beef, you're out of luck (although a vegetarian sandwich will soon be on the menu). However, there is no questioning the quality and taste of the hand cut, thinly sliced beef. Expert 'guerilla sandwich maker' Jonny Slice makes sure of it. Each bite melts in your mouth. Soft, squishy roll, piled high with house roasted beef, with or without American cheese and your choice of condiments: BBQ sauce, horseradish and mustard. And raw onions for the hard core.  

This Little Piggy owner Will Gallagher explained that in the six weeks before his shop opened to the public, he and his team were testing and perfecting every menu item. It's clearly paid off. The menu, while small, is well thought out, the seasonings pretty perfect, even the locally made rolls were chosen to have enough heft to hold the gravy. Order your generous, mouth watering sandwich with onions and you get a delicious dollop caramelized in pan juices. Basic sides, including homemade macaroni and potato salads, are nothing but basic. Hand cut fries smothered in homemade, silky gravy are addictive. 
I say go do your own taste test. 
This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef                                     Bowery Beef
149 1st Ave.                                                                  308 Bowery
212 253 1500                                                                 212 260 3300
sandwiches $5.50 - $12.50                                              sandwiches $5-$6
Bowery Beef on Urbanspoon