Happiness is a Rainbow Cake

Good to the last bite

One of my favorite people in the world just turned two. And when Alexi's artistic mother Loree had visions of the most perfect mile-high rainbow-colored cake for the birthday celebration, she had no idea where to turn.

Armed with just a magazine photo as inspiration, mom found her way to Bayonne, NJ-based baker Nurys Dominici of Nurys Cakes. A mother of young kids herself, Dominici started the business last year when she kept ending up as the designated birthday cake maker for the many children in her life. Her specialty is Dominican butter cake filled with pineapple marmalade, guava or caramel sauce.

A giant, candy colored cake can easily look better than it tastes, but in this case, Dominici's gateau is moist and flavorful, and not overly sugary. It was also devoured by the party crowd - young and old.

Looks like Dominici's rainbow cakes could be ideal for lots of celebrations these days. That includes weddings.

Nurys Cakes
nuryscakes@gmail.com
917 463 4046

Good Eats from the Toronto International Film Festival

Luma's deconstructed shrimp salad...

The Toronto International Film Festival recently wrapped, and while I was there working as a publicist on a few titles, food was never far from my mind. And fortunately the food scene is as international as the festival itself.

Downtown Toronto's Entertainment District is the brand new home to the festival, where activity centers around the TIFF Bell Lightbox, a 6-story complex of state-of-the-art cinemas and film related exhibits, as well as two noteworthy restaurants from famed Canadian group Oliver + Bonacini (as in critically acclaimed Canoe and Jump).

And Luma's warm octopus salad

Canteen is a sprawling street front, corner cafe for all day dining and fine people watching. If you're on the go, or between screenings, grab a freshly made sandwich or gourmet salad.

The Lightbox's second floor restaurant, Luma, serves global and Canadian fare in a chic, relaxed space.

Standouts include the warm grilled octopus salad with pickled eggplant and romesco ($16/23), and shrimp salad ($16/23), a deconstructed plate of tender shellfish and veggie spring rolls. Other light dishes include the lobster burger ($21), and beef tongue pastrami on pretzel bread ($9). Weekend brunch service just started.

Chances are you'll hit the Entertainment District on a night out in the city. Home to four national sports teams, theatre, opera, concerts, and rows of clubs, the area just added a new dining hot spot The Shore Club, across the street from Roy Thomson Hall, home of the Toronto Symphony Orchestra (and site of big film premieres). This swanky Canadian steak and seafood chain screams "Mad Men" and martinis. Even the appetizers like fresh oysters and spicy popcorn shrimp ($14) are seductive enough to heat up the night.

Le Select Bistro

If you're craving authentic French fare, Le Select Bistro is a short cab ride into the Garment District. With 1200 wine labels and a classic zinc bar, the bustling bistro easily transports you to the side streets of Paris.

Don't leave without trying the sensational soo yook ($10) from Swish by Han. This thinly sliced beef shank is braised for 48 hours and topped with spiced greens and mustard seeds.

Soo yook packs a flavor punch

And if you venture off to Little Portugal, another must try is Porchetta + Co, a five seat sandwich shop that gets rave reviews for serving one of life's greatest foods: Italian slow roasted pork sandwiches ($5.95-$8.95).

Make sure you fly Porter Airlines to Toronto. Even their complimentary snacks are delicious.

The Best Veggie Burger in the East Village

Who needs meat with a veggie burger this good?

I am far from a vegetarian. But something about this exceptional quinoa veggie burger ($10) called out to me at the newly renovated East Village institution, Sidewalk Cafe.

The 26-year-old Sidewalk reopened last month after a six-month renovation. It's like the very average looking nice girl at school who finally lost weight and got a makeover. Wow, she looks good. But not in an overdone, slick way. Same chilled Sidewalk, just better. That goes for the menu too.

Good eats

Consulting chef Felipe Donnelly cleverly took Sidewalk's signature menu of simple, great value bar food, but just made it better.

And his wildly popular quinoa veggie burger is a perfect example. The 'meaty' burger is tender but crisp on the edges. The batter fried onions add depth and texture. And the vegan balsamic vinegar/mustard slaw is tangy and crunchy.

Come by during weekday lunch hours and get it as part of the any burger and beer daily special for $10. Dinner entrees include homemade mushroom ravioli ($12), spaghetti + meatballs ($9), and grilled skirt steak ($18). A full bar includes creamsicles and other spiked milkshakes for 10 bucks.

The staff is proud of the new look and will gladly explain that the spanking new walls actually come from a deconstructed barn in upstate New York. Some things haven't changed. Like the nightly live music in the upgraded back room. And still no cover charge.  And happy hours every day from 3-8pm.

Lookin' good, Sidewalk

94 Ave A @ 6th St.
212 473 7373

Poco Delivers Big Flavors with New Chef

Delicious shrimp ceviche with grilled pineapple

When Poco opened on a busy corner of Alphabet City in 2009, it came with an award-winning chef - Abe Lopez, champ of  the Food Network series "Chopped." Lopez excelled with creative twists on tapas staples, and when he moved on, the dining experience suffered.

Enter Chef Angel Bolanos of Stanton Social. The spark is back in a big way. And Bolanos' lifelong love of food and travel is served on each small plate.

Before culinary school, the Queens native spent his teen years living in Ecuador. As young as 13, he traveled on his own throughout South America, picking up cooking techniques along the way. He can wax lyrical about the intricate differences between rice in Ecuador, Peru and Columbia. He can also tell you what it is like living in the rainforest where protein of any kind was king (he admits staying away from the larvae and grasshoppers).

Braised brisket arepas with pico de gallo

His Poco kitchen is heavily - but not exclusively -  influenced by Latin flavors. The selection of ceviche is tantalizing, especially the shrimp with grilled pineapple, slivered almonds and chilis ($10). Its bright, citrusy crunch is met with just the right amount of heat. The braised brisket arepas ($8) are also tender, flavorful mouthfuls.

You might not expect a Vietnamese curry on the menu, but that's why Bolanos is a chef to watch. His signature dish is the pan seared scallops ($13) in a bowlful of the most delicious curry with king mushrooms. We literally picked up our bowls to drink every last drop of the rich fragrant sauce. And then encouraged the table next to us to follow suit.

Dreamy scallops in Vietnamese curry

Bolanos admits it's taken him 10 years to perfect. As a former chef at Vietnamese restaurants, he was compelled to master this creation after his very first try was an admitted disaster. I dream of this dish now.

The assertive menu is well edited for grazing: inventive tapas, ceviche, grown up mac 'n' cheeses, sliders and sharing plates. Bolanos is busy creating his autumn menu and is especially excited to introduce his butternut squash and smoked pork knuckles, as well as Brussels sprouts with cranberries and cashew crunch. And for the sweet tooth, look out for a fig souffle, and quinoa brownie.  Bring on fall.

33 Ave B @ E 3rd St
Tues - Wed, 5pm - 1am
Thurs - Fri, 5pm - 2am
Sat - Sun, 11:30am - 5pm
Sat, 6:30pm - 2am
Sun, 6:30pm - 1am
212 228 4461

The Cardinal - New Southern Comfort in the East Village

A serious dinner spread at The Cardinal

With Irene a distant memory, let's get back to our normal weekend activities. Planning to catch the current number one film, "The Help"? Then follow it up with a big helping of Southern comfort at the new East Village eatery, The Cardinal.

Named for the North Carolina state bird, the bi-level Alphabet City BBQ joint is brimming with promise and hospitality. And a lot of meat. And the former head chef of Bubby's.

It's easy to see chef-owner Curtis Brown's passion for Southern cuisine and his North Carolina roots. He orders the locally sourced meat (grass fed beef + Heritage pork) whole so he can create everything from hot links to the ridiculously juicy burgers and bacon in-house.

I'd easily come here with a friend, a date, my mom, a group outing - even with kids. It's neighborhood casual and won't leave you hungry. That's for sure.

Plates are generous. The wet or dry rubbed BBQ plate ($19) could easily feed two or more. Or just me. It includes three meats: North Carolina pulled pork, Memphis ribs and Texas-style brisket. Homemade sauces on the side. Fried chicken ($15) is three crisp 'n' juicy pieces of bird. The fried pork chops smothered in red eye gravy ($15) are also moist and tasty.

Neighborhood charm

Each dinner comes with a choice of two sides. Mac N cheese is a standout. Baked beans and greens are both a close second. But, seriously, it's all mouth watering. And the prices definitely won't break the bank. Three platters and three beers: $75. How's that for a happy ending? Now smack your lips and pass the napkins.

Cool fact: Curtis Brown used to be the front man for hard rock band Bad Wizard. His old bandmate Stephen Tanner is the chef-owner of another classic comfort food spot, The Commodore.

Currently open for dinner and weekend brunch. Weekday lunch service coming soon.

234 E 4th St (between Ave A + Ave B)
Mon - Thurs 6pm - midnight
Fri 6pm - 1am
Sat 10am - 1am, Sun 10am - 11pm
212 995 8600

A Feasting Weekend in Chicago

Scallop spiedini with chickpea aioli from The Purple Pig

Not getting our waitlisted table at Alinea wasn't the worst thing that could happen while on a recent trip to Chicago.

Yes, it would be nice to eat at the finest restaurant in the country. But I certainly wouldn't be left starving in the abundant Windy City.

First stop, Crisp, my all time favorite Korean fried chicken joint. Since my sister Nadine introduced it to the family a few years ago (and changed my life), it's developed a famous following. But the fare still satisfies. The sticky, sesame flecked BBQ chicken (kicked up with a side of sriracha mayo) manages to set your mouth on fire and leave you begging for more. The mild ginger-soy Seoul Sassy is another fine coating for the bird. Sauces are all homemade.

World's greatest Korean fried chicken wings from Crisp

Dinner is a swanky night out at Cibo Matto ("crazy food") in downtown's uber hip Wit Hotel. Dishes emerging from the open kitchen are eye candy. Attention to detail is everywhere in the chic, modern dining room, even down to the placement of each artisanal bread roll.

My beautifully pan roasted striped bass made up for the out-of-place 'chicken and waffles' amuse bouche. Afterwards, checked out the Wit's Roof bar for a nightcap and spectacular skyline view.

Lunch at Miller's Pub, a Chicago institution since 1935, is a slice of tasty nostalgia. Under the gaze of hundreds of famous folks framed on the walls, I wolfed down a classic Reuben sandwich that had a civilized ratio of meat to bread, not some mile high gut buster I'm used to seeing back home.

Sensational Armenian meze at Sayat Nova

After a long day at work, I couldn't help indulging in a refreshing Effen Cucumber cocktail and Armenian meze platter at exotic Sayat Nova. This lovely family run eatery has been a fixture off the Mag Mile for the past 40 years. The tabbouleh, lamb kebabs, and baba ganoush are among the finest anywhere. So is the tantalizing Armenian steak tartare called raw kibbee, studded with onions, cracked wheat and fresh parsley.

It would have been nice to sample the runaway hit Girl and the Goat, but even visiting at 10 pm yielded an hour and a half wait. The food did look as gorgeous as the crowd. And I got a sweet smile from chef Stephanie Izard as we walked away reservationless. Sniff sniff.

Juicy pork blade steak with nduja and honey

Fortunately, The Purple Pig was the final stop on the culinary field trip, and ended it with a bang.

A Bon Appetit top 10 winner in 2010, this bustling small plate eatery delivered its promise of cheese, wine and swine. The pork blade steak was juicy and succulent and served over a slice of nduja, a spreadable spicy pork salami from Calabria. The pork liver pate was robust. The seared scallops in chickpea aioli were equally delicious. Only the potato and speck croquettes were bland and forgettable.

Fresh baked savory pies

Middle Eastern delicacies

I always leave Chicago with a stash of edible souvenirs. Often it's from Middle East Bakery  & Grocery, an Ali Baba's treasure trove of delicacies. This time my luggage was stuffed with an assortment of freshly baked meat and spinach pies, lahmajoun, a favorite Armenian pizza with spicy minced meat, and homemade red pepper relish. Bright and lemony, the crimson topping is delicious on everything from omelets to sandwiches. The shop is filled with many hard to find ingredients, spices, dried fruit and nuts.

Thanks, Chi-town. You never disappoint.

Alinea, 1723 North Halsted

Cibo Matto, 201 North State St.

Crisp, 2940 North Broadway

Girl and the Goat, 809 West Randolph St.

Middle East Bakery and Grocery, 1512 West Foster Ave.

Miller's Pub, 134 South Wabash Ave.
Sayat Nova, 157 East Ohio St.

The Purple Pig, 500 North Michigan Ave.

Chicago on Dwellable

The Best Vietnamese Chicken Salad

Fresh and fabulous

If you love the tangy lime dressing in Thai papaya salad, this recipe is for you. I adapted it from Nigella Lawson's Vietnamese Chicken Salad recipe, and it's a classic in my repertoire. Light, spicy and refreshing, it's a perfect meal in itself. You can either poach the chicken breast or use the white meat from a rotisserie chicken (great for leftover cold chicken). Definitely use breast meat only.

Mix dressing ingredients and let sit for 10 minutes:
1 jalapeno pepper (or Thai chili for more heat), seeded and minced
juice from 1/2 lime
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 scallions, finely sliced

Allow dressing ingredients to meld flavors for 10 mins

Add:
1/2 cup cooked chicken breast meat - or about 1/2 of a breast - cubed or shredded
*1 cup shredded white cabbage
*1 cup shredded purple cabbage
*1/4 cup shredded carrots
handful chopped cilantro

* As a shortcut, you can also use bagged coleslaw mix, but it's best if it's thinly sliced. I buy mine from Essex Farm Fruits in the wonderful Essex St. Market in the Lower East Side.

Gently mix til thoroughly coated. Let sit 5 minutes to develop full flavor. Serves 1-2. Best if eaten immediately.